News & Updates
The official way to set up a chess board.
While there are many different ways you can set up your chess board, there is only one “official” way to set up your board. It can also be difficult to undertand and even remember how to set up your chess board.
White At The Bottom
First, remember that white always starts out at the “bottom” of the chess board. To start, the bottom left square should be a dark-colored square. Rotate your chess board until a dark-colored square is found at the bottom left corner of the board (left for the person playing as white). This square is also known as “a1″ in chess notation.
Set Up Your White Chess Pieces
Now you can begin to set up your white pieces. Place a white Rook on a1. The Rook is the piece that looks like the top to a castle. The next square to the right (from the white player’s position) is “b1″. Place a white Knight (looks like a horse) on b1. Going right, the next square (which should be dark) is c1. Place a white Bishop (the piece that has a strange chip taken out of the top) here. On d1, place your white Queen (the piece with the crown), then on e1, place your white King (the piece with the cross on top of the crown). Next, place a white Bishop, then a white Knight and finally your last white Rook on f1, g1 and h1 respectively.
Once you’ve placed your major pieces, you need to place your 8 white pawns (they should all look the same and are the smallest pieces in the set). They should all be placed on the squares between a2 and h2, just in front of your other white pieces.
Set Up Your Black Chess Pieces
Now you can set up your black chess pieces. It is easiest to set it up from the white side. Start at the top left corner. This square should be a light square and it is known as “a8″. Place a black Rook. Your next square to the right is “b8″. Place a black Knight here. Next on c8, place a black Bishop. At this point, it may seem a little backwards, but you should put your black Queen on d8, the next square to the right. On e8, place your black King, followed by your second black Bishop on f8. Next put your last black Knight on g8 and your last black Rook on h8. The pawns for black are all placed on the row in front of your current pieces, between a7 and h7.
April 11, 2011
Tags: Chess 101
Are you new to chess? Don’t worry, we’re here to help! Follow our blog to stay up-to-date in our series of the basics of chess and chess play. We’ll guide you through everything you need to know about chess from the board & pieces all the way to secret tactics and quick checkmates.
The Board
Every standard chess board features 64 squares, 32 in one color (usually white or light) and 32 in another (usually black or dark). In chess, each square is assigned a letter and number value (such as E5). The board is also divided into horizontal rows (called “rank”) and vertical columns (called “files”). Each “rank” is assigned a number 1-8, starting with 1 at the bottom. Each “file” is assigned a letter A-H, starting with A on the left side of the board. A correct game of chess begins with a dark square in the lower left corner and a light square in the lower right corner.
Buying a Chess Board
There are thousands upon thousands of different chess boards available and it can be hard to choose the correct one to buy. Boards come in every material from plastic, vinyl, wood, marble or other materials. Here at Wholesale Chess, we carry a few dozen different boards that all work in a variety of settings.
Ready to buy your first board? Make sure you get the right board! For beginners, we recommend a good vinyl or basic wood board. A Basic Vinyl Chess Board can be an excellent purchase. They are very inexpensive, come in a variety of colors, and are very durable. If you have small children, they are also great because they can handle the rigors and abuse from children. Not only are they durable, but because of their low price, they are easy to replace.
View Vinyl and Roll-Up Chess Boards
Do you need a great board that travels well? We recommend a vinyl or mouse pad chess board. These boards are specifically designed for tournament play. They roll up and are very easy to carry and transport. They also handle a lot of use very well and are inexpensive to replace. These boards are also quite standard among tournament play. The mouse pad board is different from the vinyl both in texture and finish. The mouse pad board is made from a material similar to what you’d see in a traditional computer mouse pad. The board is thicker, softer and doesn’t wrinkle or warp like the vinyl boards can.
View Vinyl and Roll-Up Chess Boards
Can’t get enough of chess at home? Get yourself a proper studying board! Many chess enthusiasts will read chess boards or watch videos with a chess board out to help them visualize concepts better. A larger tournament board can make it difficult to study because of it’s size. We recommend an analysis chess board for studying. The board is just 12″ square, making it one of the smallest boards on the market. Our analysis board is made of the basic vinyl material, is quite portable, and stores easily.
View Analysis Chess Board
High-End Chess Boards
Are you ready to buy a high-end chess board? At the upper end, chess boards come in a variety of materials and can range in price from $40 to over $1,000. First, select the type of board you would like. Wood boards are the most common to purchase, but boards can also be available in metal, marble or other stone. High-end chess boards can also come as folding sets with storage, large flat chess boards with storage compartments underneath, or simply large, flat chess boards. Most importantly, purchase a board you really like and one that looks good in your home or office setting.
Folding Chess Boards are excellent high-end boards because they save space and store well. If you’re not looking for a board to display, but still want quality, this is the way to go. Folding chess boards come in a variety of sizes, though usually between 10″ and 20″. Many sets come with chess pieces already, but some sets do require you find and purchase chess pieces on your own. Some folding chess boards also feature compartments inside for holding and storing pieces or other supplies, which some simply fold into themselves.
View Folding Chess Boards
Storage Chess Boards (sometimes called Cabinet Chess Boards) are excellent for display. They are beautiful boards that feature a compartment inside for storing pieces and supplies. The boards are all quite beautiful and will look great on a corner table or as the center piece on a coffee table. Because these boards are frequently used as displays, it’s best to be careful on wood and finish selections. Make sure you find a finish you love and will look good.
View Storage Chess Boards
Many of the most beautiful chess boards available are simple, flat boards without storage or folding. Many of these boards are hand-crafted and feature exquisite detail. There are dozens of these boards available in a wide variety of price ranges. As with storage chess boards, be careful which color and finish you choose. It’s all about personal taste and budget.
View Flat Wood Chess Boards
by guest author Greg Delaney for Wholesale Chess
Let’s state the obvious right from the beginning: losing chess games is not fun! Okay, now that we are past that, we can now move along to the real subject of this article – how to handle losses and make them work for us. I recall reading somewhere long ago a statement by a tennis coach that went something like this: “Tennis must be a great game, because half the players who play it lose – and they keep coming back.” I think our wonderful game of chess is no less “great.” Everyone who plays chess loses sometimes, but we keep playing anyway. Two important aspects of chess learning that have taken me awhile to accept (albeit grudgingly) are that losing chess games is okay, and that it can help us become stronger players.
One of the strongest roadblocks in my own path to chess progress has been the thinking error that my worth as a person rides on the result of every chess game I play. This irrational belief has led me to do the following: 1) put tremendous pressure on myself to win or, barring that, not losing, 2) play cautiously and passively – “not to lose” rather than trying to win, 3) avoid playing at times so as not to risk a loss, 4) feel so ashamed of my losses as to avoid post-mortems and replaying the games for understanding, 5) criticize myself unmercifully for errors and blunders, and, 6) fail to share losses with strong players who could point out patterns of mistakes and thinking so change could happen.
I know that I cannot be the only chess player who has done some or all of these things, so I’d like to share a few tips about losing that I’ve learned the hard way. First and foremost, there is no connection whatsoever between our level of chess strength and our value as people. This sounds self-evident, but I have witnessed numerous times tantrums and unsportsmanlike behavior from players who have lost a game. Some people have a hard time losing any competition because they tie their self-worth to winning. Secondly, all that self-criticism does is to undermine confidence, which is a vital characteristic of a good chess player.
The third one took me awhile to understand: playing passive chess and thereby forfeiting the initiative is effective – only if you wish to lose! Chess is a war game and the object is to “kill” the opponent’s king. I have learned that the opponent will gladly take the initiative if we kindly hand it over. Making threats is what chess is about, and if we don’t make them, our opponents will. My fourth idea is tied to the tennis coach’s statement above: the possibility of losing is not a reason to not play chess. Personally, I have not yet died from a loss, and I imagine no one reading this has, either.
Finally, we need to look over our games with players stronger than ourselves – not just to learn from our mistakes, but to have pointed out to us all of the errors and blunders our opponents make. It is reassuring to see that our opponents are not perfect and that we may have simply not seen and taken advantage of the mistakes they make. Moreover, Mikhail Botvinnik was insistent that objective, thorough, and critical evaluation of one’s play in each game is essential to improvement. How else to not keep making the same mistakes over and over? I have begun to let go of my shame and fear about losses by sharing them with my chess coach, IM Yelena Dembo, and listening – really listening – to her constructive feedback. By viewing our losses in these ways, we can use them for improvement, rather than feeling bad about them and ourselves.
The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily represent the views of Wholesale Chess. We welcome open discussion on all aspects of chess on the Wholesale Chess Blog. If you would like to be a guest author on our blog, please contact us at marketing@wholesalechess.com.
This article was written by P.N. John for Wholesale Chess
Once the child has reached a FIDE rating level of 1500-1800 the right attitude towards effective study and practice are needed for further progress to mastery. The fun element has to be given top priority so that the child develops a passion to win at chess and acquires a learning mindset. World chess champion Viswanathan Anand said recently, “I enjoy working on chess. I try playing different openings, learning from other players. My curiosity in chess has remained unchanged since the time I started playing.”
It is very important to have drills to practice repeatedly the fundamental chess concepts-basic tactics, (WSC note: see Chess Tactics for Students) must-know endgame positions, various basic mates etc. This should be done daily with a chess clock attempting to solve within lower and lower time periods so that correct technique comes naturally and automatically over-the-board while playing. This can be done under the guidance of a good chess coach but the child should do it on his own as soon as he can do so. Only with this basic foundation can the child proceed to creative and more advanced chess.
Victor Korchnoi, a great Grandmaster has said, “Chess you don’t learn, chess you understand”. From this stems the most important tool available to the child to attain mastery- critically analyze by himself the games he has played to identify and learn from mistakes made. More time should be spent on games lost. When the coach goes through the games and analysis afterwards he can give the feedback needed to improve and identify the weaknesses and strengths of the child and suggest specifically what to study and which chess problems to solve. It is good for the child to have a large collection of chess books and chess software to refer to as suggested by the coach to overcome weaknesses and enhance strengths. Analysis with Fritz, Rybka should be done later to understand and learn from opportunities humans missed.
The child should go through as many Grandmaster games as possible using different approaches suggested by chess trainers-slowly, quickly, guess-the-move, analyze the moves before looking at the annotations etc., to get diverse benefits and enhance overall understanding of the game of chess so that he can play better and improve the quality of annotating his own games.
It is a good idea to start off with a good games collection book like Steve Giddins’ “50 ways to Win at Chess” which is focused on good technique. Going through Grandmaster games like Chessbase 11 or Chess Assistant 11 alone, with friends or a coach is a great way to absorb different ideas in chess.
A child should be encouraged, if he enjoys it, to record his thoughts on his improving chess experiences in a journal every day. Also, special notebooks can be kept to classify and then record important tactical and positional themes from his own games .Writing speeds up absorption of chess ideas and periodically reviewing the notes will help the child to apply the knowledge over-the-board.
Apart from serious chess study the child should play with chess players of varying strengths under different time-controls but mostly slow chess games of at least an hour each. As far as possible games should be analyzed with the opponent immediately or at least the same day itself on his own as immediate feedback is very important for improvement.
More than just chess skills are needed to attain mastery. Physical and mental fitness are important for success in tournaments. This idea was well put by Anatoly Karpov, the former world champion, “To be champion requires more than simply being a strong player; one has to be a strong human being as well.” So it is important to have a balanced approach. Academics should not be ignored. The child should be encouraged to take up other interests like physical sports and reading. He should learn to take losses in his stride even as he strives to improve and win. The goal should be to improve at chess at least a bit each day.
P.N.John lives in India and has been totally involved in the stock market for past 25 years. He used to play chess only casually but for the past couple of years he has been studying chess seriously, played several tournaments and got his FIDE rating. Not surprisingly perhaps, improved chess thinking skills have helped him to take better decisions in the stock market.
by Guest Author Greg Delaney
Over the past few years, I have come to appreciate the efforts made by the English Grandmaster Nigel Davis to help club players grow in chess understanding and strength. Davies is the featured presenter on a fair number of Chessbase Software ranging from opening theory (“The Closed Sicilian” and The Scotch Game”) to psychology (“Chess for Scoundrels” and “How to Beat Younger Players”) to strategy (“French Defense Strategy”).GM Davies is an articulate and well-prepared instructor via this medium, and I have purchased a number of these Fritz Trainers for those reasons.
But for me Davies’ skills and insights stand out even more clearly in the books he authors. In the past two years, GM Davies has produced two excellent books for club players: “The Rules of Winning Chess” (2009) and “Ten Great Ways to Get Better at Chess.” (2010)
These two volumes (published by Everyman Chess) are a treasure trove of improvement ideas and 
well-stated axioms of chess, suitable for most everyone except perhaps a rank beginner. What Davies does so exceptionally well in these books is to provide clear, concrete examples of each and every idea. Full games, fragments, and very readable prose both edify and entertain. In “The Rules of Winning Chess,” no less than fifty “rules” are presented to the reader. Some of the “rules” are Davies’ take on very familiar chess principles while others are rather unique presentations of psychological factors as well as tactical and strategic ideas. Games and game fragments abound, as do anecdotes about Davies’ own career and the lives of famous Grandmasters. No part of the game of chess is left out – the “rules” are placed into five Chapters covering the following topical areas: “The Player,” “Preparation,” “The Opening,” “The Middlegame,” and “The Endgame.” There is truly “something for everyone” in this book.
“Ten Great Ways to Get Better at Chess” is GM Davies’ most recent book, and I find it to be even more interesting and relevant to me than “The Rules of Winning Chess.” Each of the ten suggestions are thoroughly explained and illustrated by well-annotated games. Davies is one author who describes what’s going on with a minimum of variations and no Informator symbols. His explanations are readily understood and, as always, well illustrated by games and anecdotes. A very interesting feature of the book is the inclusion of “before and after” games played by Davies’ own students, once they had learned more about one particular “way” of getting better. Differences between the games help the reader “see” the concepts put into action. GM Davies includes some of his own games, as well, to show that he not only preaches but follows his own suggestions.
I was pleasantly surprised by the nature of the 60 total ideas offered in these two books. Many are novel ideas that are simply common sense once the reader has assimilated them. Because of the sheer number of suggestions made, the reader may select those which fit his/her needs and interests. I should mention, however, that a reader who thinks these two books contain easy ideas that require no work on their parts will be very unhappy. Chess is hard work, and GM Davies pulls no punches in stressing this. Like all good ideas, the material in these two books requires active implementation and practice – key ingredients to chess improvement.
Greg Delaney is Life Member of USCF who returned to chess in 2005 after a three decade hiatus from the game he loves. He is an educator, club player, and student of IM Yelena Dembo. For fun, he blogs about chess and his work to improve as a player.
The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily represent the views of Wholesale Chess. We welcome open discussion on all aspects of chess on the Wholesale Chess Blog. If you would like to be a guest author on our blog, please contact us at marketing@wholesalechess.com.
by Greg Delaney
Chessbase has released dozens of very good training DVD’s in the past few years, featuring very capable and well-known presenters such as Andrew Martin, Alexei Shirov, and Viktor Bologan (and countless others).
The Secret to Chess, by first time presenter GM Maurice Ashley is one of the best that I’ve seen during that time. GM Ashley from New York became the first African-American to earn the coveted international title in 1999, and has since become a polished chess commentator for events such as Kasparov’s matches against computer programs and the Anand-Kasparov World Championship match in 1995. Ashley’s skills at the chess board and in front of the camera serve him well in this DVD.
“The Secret to Chess” has about 4 hours of chess instruction by GM Ashley on a simple but profound idea: every move in chess has at least one “drawback.” Beginners and club players have some general understanding of this (“pawn moves always weaken squares,” for example) concept, but Ashley presents the idea literally as a way to play each and every chess game. He provides numerous examples of what he calls “Drawback Chess” or “Aikido Chess” (Ashley is a martial artist who is familiar with the Aikido style, based on taking advantage of the opponent’s imbalances and weakened areas). The examples begin with positions in which the “drawback” to a player’s move is relatively easy to spot, and gradually progress in difficulty and complexity. GM Ashley’s explanations of the drawbacks and how they are “punished” are detailed and clearly illustrated with the colored squares, arrows, etc. frequently seen in Chessbase DVD’s.
Ashley’s delivery style is lively and engaging: even his few errors are entertaining. His verbiage is sprinkled with words that communicate Ashley’s inherently aggressive style, and he comes across as really enjoying the presentation he is delivering. A small number of examples are from Ashley’s own games, and he provides excellent insight into the positions as one might expect. In addition, however, GM Ashley takes the viewer into his thought process, his emotions, and some of the psychology that takes place at the highest levels of chess. The emphasis of the DVD is on recognizing the drawbacks to the opponent’s moves and on taking advantage of these drawbacks to find very strong and even decisive moves. As a viewer, I was thoroughly engaged in the material for the entire 4 hours.
While The Secret to Chess focuses primarily on identifying and exploiting the drawbacks of the opponent’s moves, I have found it even more interesting to use this idea to help me identify the drawbacks of my moves when I lose games. In the past I have often been perplexed as to why I lost some games (in ways other than outright blunders, of course), and I have started to analyze these games from the “drawback” perspective. It becomes much easier to see why I lose when I look for the drawbacks of my moves and how my opponent exploited them. I consider this DVD a “must own” for any club/tournament player.
Greg Delaney is Life Member of USCF who returned to chess in 2005 after a three decade hiatus from the game he loves. He is an educator, club player, and student of IM Yelena Dembo. For fun, he blogs about chess and his work to improve as a player.
The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily represent the views of Wholesale Chess. We welcome open discussion on all aspects of chess on the Wholesale Chess Blog. If you would like to be a guest author on our blog, please contact us at marketing@wholesalechess.com.
This is the last in the series of articles written on this subject by guest author Greg Delaney for Wholesale Chess.
I had now acquired the services of a noted chess trainer who seemed to understand both my deficits in chess understanding and some of the personality difficulties that were holding me back in my pursuit of chess improvement. After some examination of recent games I’d played in over-the-board tournaments, it was time to clearly identify areas needing change.
The first and most significant factor to be corrected was the overall passivity of my chess. An overhaul of my opening repertoire was needed. Recommended were the Classical Sicilian Defense and King’s Indian as Black, as well as switching to 1. e4 as my first move when playing White. Of course, it became clear that I would need a number of ideas and lines against all of Black’s possible replies. I was provided with some (not a lot) of theory to look over and begin to learn, but I should stress here that an opening repertoire was not the priority. Much more was (and is still) needed.
The second primary weakness was a glaring lack of knowledge of chess fundamentals. My endgame play was very weak, my tactical skills were mediocre, and my positional understanding was rudimentary. A variety of lessons were planned and conducted on these aspects of chess, and I was given “homework” ranging from annotating positions and continuations to working with positional exercises in one of my trainer’s books. I needed to better understand basic endgame theory and to unlearn the mistaken notion that I could figure it out over the board when the time came. This was a silly belief, of course, but one that I had developed out of my laziness. In a similar vein, I would often select a move that “looked good” without calculating subsequent variations – I would just “see what my opponent came up with” and go from there.
The third identified difficulty was a negative attitude towards myself as a person, my capabilities in chess, and my positions in every game. My trainer pointed out that many times I had already lost the game from the beginning, because my early moves allowed the opponents to do pretty much whatever they wanted. Psychologically, I feared conflict, and I gave far too much power to my opponents and their ratings. During games, I could readily see strong moves and plans that my opponent could play, but I saw only the defects in my own position. For this I was encouraged to play games online, 5-10 minutes per game, as a way to practice openings and get an idea of how they feel to play. Moreover, the mantra “make a threat with every move you can” was added to my chess mentality, and we even analyzed these blitz games for signs of old thinking and improvement.
There are many other aspects of this plan that I could share, but these three areas of struggle and the resulting change plans have been quite successful. I find myself thinking more in terms of making threats and putting pressure on my opponents. I am gradually learning some of the opening variations and the ideas behind them – although there is much, much more to learn before I can play any of them competently. I have noticed less anxiety when playing higher rated players online, and I even seek out stronger players as a challenge. I have won a number of games by executing some of my improved endgame knowledge, and I can recommend studying the endings as a way to pick up wins – even in equal or losing positions. Instead of “giving up” on a game when I blunder or end up in a bad position, I am succeeding in fighting and even winning a few. There are relapses into old ways sometimes, but now at least I know what to correct and how to go about it.
Greg Delaney is Life Member of USCF who returned to chess in 2005 after a three decade hiatus from the game he loves. He is an educator, club player, and student of IM Yelena Dembo. For fun, he blogs about chess and his work to improve as a player.
The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily represent the views of Wholesale Chess. We welcome open discussion on all aspects of chess on the Wholesale Chess Blog. If you would like to be a guest author on our blog, please contact us at marketing@wholesalechess.com.
Written by guest author Jason Repa for Wholesale Chess
In some ways I feel fortunate to have commenced my foray into tournament chess just before the arrival of the popular internet and all the chess software and access to theory that hitherto was not available. At that time, studying chess meant looking at a real board with real chess pieces and attempting to work out complex positions using your own mind. Sometimes you used an opening manual or other chess books as a reference, but Rybka 4 was not around to do the thinking for you. You were forced to learn how to plan, attack, defend, and work out all the tactics in a particular position or else suffer defeat against an opponent who did. For those who embraced the challenge of learning how to play the game using only their wits, this resulted in the development of skill. Sure you would often miss an important combination, or completely be on the wrong track in your understanding of a particular position, but you were fully immersed in the learning process and, as a result, would adapt and Read more �
Copyright 2012 Wholesale Chess. All rights reserved.
